Fennel is called variyali in Gujarati, saunf in Hindi, moti saunf when the seeds are large, and sombu in Tamil. India is the world\'s largest producer, with most of the crop grown across Gujarat and Rajasthan.

Fennel grades differ in more than size. The large type has plumper seeds, paler green to olive in colour, with a bolder aniseed character and noticeably less sweetness than the small lakhnavi grade. That bluntness is exactly what savoury cooking needs. In a pickle masala or a Bengali panch phoron, a sweet fennel would sit oddly. A robust one disappears into the blend and does its job.

Size also affects how it behaves under heat. Larger seeds take a few seconds longer to release aroma in hot oil and are less prone to scorching, which makes them more forgiving in a tadka. They grind more evenly too, since the seed has more body.

Colour still matters for freshness even though this grade is naturally paler. Good large fennel is green to light olive with no straw-coloured or yellowed seeds mixed in. Fading tracks aroma loss.

The dye test applies to any fennel. Rub a few seeds between damp fingers. Natural fennel leaves no colour on the skin. If green comes off, colouring has been added.

How to Identify Good Large Fennel

• Plump, evenly sized seeds rather than a mix of grades
• Green to light olive colour with no straw or yellowed seeds
• Firm seeds that snap cleanly, not soft or bendy
• Clear aniseed aroma released on crushing
• No colour transfer when rubbed between damp fingers
• Free from stalk pieces, husk and dust

Where Large Fennel Is Used

• Pickle masala and achar
• Panch phoron and Bengali cooking
• Tadka for dal and sabzi
• Meat and fish curries
• Garam masala and spice blends
• Rajasthani and Kashmiri preparations
• Sambar and rasam powders
• Bread and savoury baking

How to Use Large Fennel

In a tadka:

• Heat oil or ghee until shimmering
• Add half a teaspoon with jeera, rai and hing at the start
• The seeds pop lightly and release aroma within a few seconds
• Move on immediately, since fennel turns bitter once it browns

In pickle masala:

• Dry roast lightly with methi, rai and dhania on a low flame
• Cool completely before grinding coarsely
• Fennel is a standard component of Gujarati and Rajasthani pickle blends

In panch phoron:

• Combine equal parts fennel, jeera, methi, rai and kalonji
• Add whole to hot oil at the start of a Bengali preparation

Ground:

• Dry roast for a minute, cool, then grind
• Add to curry powders and meat masalas
• Ground fennel fades within three to four weeks, so grind as needed

Quantity: half a teaspoon for a dish serving four. This grade is less sweet than lakhnavi, so it can be used more freely in savoury cooking.

Dishes That Use Large Fennel

• Pickle masala and achar
• Panch phoron
• Dal and sabzi tadka
• Meat and fish curries
• Garam masala blends
• Rajasthani and Kashmiri cooking
• Sambar and rasam powders
• Savoury breads

How to Store Large Fennel

Fennel loses colour and aroma faster than most whole spices, with light being the main cause.

• Keep the seeds in an airtight container in a cool, dry place away from sunlight
• Use an opaque container or keep it inside a cupboard
• Do not store above the stove, as heat and steam flatten the aroma
• Keep the container closed rather than leaving it open in a masala dabba

Stored properly, large fennel holds its strength for around a year. Colour tells you as much as smell: green seeds are fresh, straw-coloured ones have faded.

Never store ground fennel. Grind at the point of use.

Large Fennel or Lakhnavi Variyali: Which One to Buy

Spyran stocks both grades of the same seed.

Large fennel, moti saunf, is plumper and paler with a bolder aniseed taste and less sweetness. It handles heat better and grinds more evenly. Best for tadka, pickle masala, panch phoron and savoury cooking.

Lakhnavi variyali is small, slim and bright green, sweeter and softer to chew. Best for mukhwas, paan, fennel tea and lighter dishes where the sweetness is wanted.