Sabudana is called sago in English, sabakki in Kannada and javvarisi in Tamil. The pearls are made from tapioca starch extracted from cassava root, washed, settled and rolled into round beads before drying.

The pearl is almost pure starch, which explains everything about how it behaves. It absorbs water readily, swells to several times its dry size, and turns translucent and sticky when cooked. Handled well that stickiness gives sabudana vada its structure. Handled badly it gives khichdi that clumps into a single mass.

Pearl size and uniformity decide most of the outcome. Pearls of mixed sizes soak unevenly, so some are still hard while others have already gone mushy. Uniform pearls take on water at the same rate, which is why sorted sabudana behaves more predictably in the pan.

Colour should be white to off-white with a slight sheen. Grey, dull or yellowing pearls have been stored badly. Excess powder at the bottom of the pack means broken pearls, which dissolve during soaking and make the batch sticky before it reaches the stove.

Because it is a starch rather than a grain, sabudana is naturally gluten-free and is permitted during Hindu fasting, which is where most of its demand comes from.

How to Identify Good Sabudana

• Uniform round pearls of consistent size
• White to off-white colour with a slight sheen, not grey or dull
• Hard and firm, with a clean snap between the teeth
• Minimal powder or broken pearls at the bottom of the pack
• No musty or sour smell
• Pearls that stay separate rather than clumping in the pack

Where Sabudana Is Used

• Sabudana khichdi
• Sabudana vada
• Sabudana kheer
• Vrat and fasting meals during Navratri and Ekadashi
• Sabudana thalipeeth
• Papad and fryums
• Tapioca puddings and desserts
• Gluten-free cooking

How to Soak Sabudana

Yeh sabse important step hai. Everything after this is straightforward.

• Rinse two to three times in a strainer until the water runs clear, which removes surface starch
• Drain completely, then add just enough water to sit level with the top of the pearls, not above
• Soak for four to five hours, or overnight for larger pearls
• The pearl is ready when it crushes easily between the thumb and finger with no hard centre
• Fluff with a fork before cooking so the pearls separate

The common mistake: too much water. Sabudana soaked in excess water turns to paste, and no amount of careful cooking fixes it. Water should be level with the pearls, never covering them.

If the pearls are still hard after soaking, sprinkle a little water and leave for another hour rather than adding a full cup.

Sabudana Khichdi

• Heat ghee, add jeera, green chilli and curry leaves
• Add boiled cubed potato and fry until light golden
• Add crushed peanuts, then the soaked sabudana
• Cook on a medium flame for four to five minutes, stirring gently
• Add sendha namak, lemon and coriander at the end

Do not overcook. The pearls turn translucent within a few minutes and continue to soften off the heat.

Sabudana Vada

• Mix soaked sabudana with mashed potato, crushed peanuts, green chilli and sendha namak
• Shape into patties and rest for ten minutes
• Deep fry on a medium flame until golden and crisp

Dishes That Use Sabudana

• Sabudana khichdi
• Sabudana vada
• Sabudana kheer
• Sabudana thalipeeth
• Vrat and fasting meals
• Papad and fryums
• Tapioca pudding
• Gluten-free preparations

Sabudana for Vrat

Sabudana is among the few staples permitted during Navratri, Ekadashi and other Hindu fasting periods, since it is a starch rather than a grain. It is usually cooked with sendha namak instead of regular salt, along with potato, peanut, green chilli and lemon.

The energy it provides is why it became the fasting food of choice. Nearly pure carbohydrate, it keeps you going through a day without a full meal.

How to Store Sabudana

Dry sabudana keeps well, since it holds almost no moisture.

• Transfer to an airtight container after opening
• Keep in a cool, dry place away from sunlight and away from the stove
• Keep away from moisture entirely, since damp pearls clump and can spoil
• Use a dry spoon each time

Stored properly, sabudana keeps for over a year. It does not lose flavour the way a spice does, but it can take on moisture and clump, which is the main thing to watch during the monsoon.

Soaked sabudana should be used the same day. It does not keep once wet.